Nanzen-ji Audio Guide

Nanzen-ji: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to Nanzen-ji

   Welcome to Nanzen-ji, written 南禅寺 in Japanese, a Zen Buddhist temple in the Sakyo ward of Kyoto. It is one of the highest-ranking Zen temples in Japan, and its vast grounds hold buildings, gardens and a good deal of woodland all in one sweep. The temple belongs to the Rinzai school of Zen and serves as the head temple of its own Nanzen-ji branch. Its full mountain name is Zuiryusan, and in its early days it went by another name, Zenrin-ji. The grounds cover roughly 150,000 square meters, so you are not stepping into a single hall but into a whole landscape. In the next few minutes we will look at how an emperor's palace became a temple, how Nanzen-ji ended up above every other Zen temple in Kyoto, and what you can see once you pass through its great gate. Take your time on the approach. The scenery here shifts through the seasons, and cherry blossoms in spring and red maples in autumn are especially loved.

2. 02

   From Palace to Temple at Nanzen-ji

   Every temple starts somewhere, and Nanzen-ji started as a place of imperial leisure. In 1291, Emperor Kameyama established the temple on the site of his own earlier detached palace. A retreat for an emperor became a home for Zen monks. The temple's early name, Zenrin-ji, points to that first chapter. It later became Nanzen-ji, and its formal name is a long one, Taiheikokoku Nanzen Zenji. The main image of worship is Shaka Nyorai, the historical Buddha. Kameyama is honored as the founding patron, and the first abbot, the founding teacher, was the monk Mukan Fumon, who later received the title Daimin Kokushi. That imperial origin still echoes today. Visitors come here to pray for family safety, a tradition linked to Emperor Kameyama and the temple's long role as a place of prayer for the imperial family. As you walk the grounds, keep in mind that you are moving across what was once an emperor's private garden estate.

3. 03

   Nanzen-ji Above the Five Mountains

   Here is a curious piece of Zen politics. Kyoto had a famous group of major Zen temples called the Kyoto Gozan, the five great Zen temples of the city. Nanzen-ji is not one of them, and that is exactly the point. It stands above them. The system itself was adapted from Chinese roots, the so-called Five Mountain System. After Ashikaga Yoshimitsu completed Shokoku-ji in 1386, a new ranking was created with Nanzen-ji placed at the very top, in a class of its own. The other great temples of Kyoto, including Shokoku-ji, Kennin-ji and Tofuku-ji, sit within the ranking. Nanzen-ji presides over them. That is why you will often hear it described as the head temple presiding over the Gozan in Kyoto, and as a special Zen temple with the highest status among Zen temples in Japan. Think of it as the temple that sits at the head of the table.

4. 04

   The Gate, the Hojo and the Garden of Nanzen-ji

   Now to the architecture. The great Sanmon gate stands 22 meters tall. It was rebuilt in 1628 by Todo Takatora to commemorate those who died in the Summer Siege of Osaka. From its upper floor you can enjoy a panoramic view over Kyoto. That view comes with a bit of theater. Legend gives the outlaw Ishikawa Goemon a famous line from up there, "What a magnificent view, what a magnificent view!" The gate is also a doorway in a spiritual sense: passing through the Sanmon is said to dispel worldly desires. Beyond the gate, the Hojo, the abbot's quarters, is an Important Cultural Property. Its Hojo Garden is a designated Place of Scenic Beauty, a dry landscape garden of the kind Zen is known for. Tradition attributes it to the garden designer Kobori Enshu. Stand quietly before it and let the raked gravel and stones do the talking.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off from Nanzen-ji

   Before you move on, look for the aqueduct. Its red-brick arches and weathered walls make a striking contrast with the wooden temple halls, and it looks atmospheric from almost every angle. It is one of the most photographed corners of the grounds, and a reminder that Nanzen-ji holds more than one era in a single walk. If you want to experience the temple as a place of practice rather than just a sight, early morning Zen meditation sessions have been held from 6 a.m. on the second and fourth Sundays of each month, open to the public and free of charge. For getting here, the nearest station is Keage on the Kyoto Municipal Subway Tozai Line, about a ten-minute walk away. As you wander, ask yourself which feels more remarkable: the emperor's palace that came before, the gate that looks out over the city, or the quiet garden where nothing seems to move at all. There is more to find in the corners of these grounds, so let your curiosity choose the path.