Welcome to Nakanoshima, written 中之島 in Japanese, a long, narrow island in the heart of Osaka. One note before we begin: this guide tells the story of the island as a whole, its rivers, its buildings and its history, rather than focusing on a single spot along it. On a map, Nakanoshima looks like a thin green and gray ribbon in Kita Ward. It is a sandbank about 3 kilometers long and roughly 50 hectares in area, and it divides the old Yodo River into two channels: the Tosabori River on one side and the Dojima River on the other. Water surrounds you wherever you stand, and that shapes everything you will see here. This is also one of the most unusual districts in Osaka. Government offices, businesses, museums and cultural facilities all sit side by side, with riverside promenades running along both banks. Many visitors say the place feels more European than typically Japanese. Over the next few minutes, we will look at how it got that way.