Welcome to Fort Zeelandia, known locally as 安平古堡, in Anping District in the city of Tainan, on the southwest coast of Taiwan. Think of this place as a stack of chapters rather than a single building. Dutch merchant-soldiers, Koxinga's forces, Qing officials, Japanese-era customs officers and modern city planners have all left their marks here. The fort was first raised by the Dutch East India Company, and it is counted as the earliest fortress built in Taiwan. For a time it was the nerve center of Dutch rule on the island, and later of Ming Zheng rule. Today, the grounds combine surviving wall remains, a history memorial hall, a museum, a lookout tower and other historic traces, all run by the Tainan city government's cultural affairs bureau. As you walk, keep one question in mind: what exactly is original, and what was added later? The answer is more surprising than the fort's name suggests, and the next sections will take you through it layer by layer.