State Temple of the Martial God Audio Guide

State Temple of the Martial God: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to State Temple of the Martial God

   Welcome to one of the oldest and best-preserved temples in Taiwan. You are in the West Central District of Tainan, at Number 229, Section 2, Yongfu Road, in front of the State Temple of the Martial God. Locals also call it the Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple, or the Grand Guandi Temple. In Chinese the name is Sìdiǎn Wǔmiào. The temple is dedicated to Lord Guan, known as Guan Di or Guangong, the warrior revered as a god of loyalty and courage. Its story reaches back to the Kingdom of Tungning, the government Koxinga founded in Taiwan between 1661 and 1683 to try to restore the Ming dynasty. It also holds a distinction that sets it apart from every other Martial God temple on the island. We will come to that shortly. Over the next few minutes we will look at its layered history, the roofs that form one of Tainan's best-known silhouettes, and the way a temple can be part of a city's daily life as well as its past. Take your time as you walk. This is a place that rewards looking up.

2. 02

   A Temple With Official Standing

   The Martial Temple in Tainan is the only Martial God temple that was granted the right to perform official sacrificial rites during the Qing dynasty. In practice, the state recognized it and honored Lord Guan here with ceremonies sanctioned by the government. The exact date of its founding is not known. A local tradition holds that it was built during the Yongli reign of the Ming dynasty. The first rebuilding on record took place in 1690 at the same site. Then came a turning point in 1723, when the three generations of Guan Di's ancestors were given the rank of dukes. His great-grandfather, grandfather and father were each honored. A chamber for the three generations of ancestors was added behind the temple in 1735, and two years later the Guandi Temple was renamed the Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple. From then on its importance only grew. The story has one more chapter. During the Japanese occupation, the temple was no longer listed among the official rites. Yet it stayed an important symbol in the minds of the people of Tainan, which shows how a temple's meaning can outlast its official status.

3. 03

   Five Roofs and a City Skyline

   Now look up. Above the wall you can see five different kinds of roofs: a swallowtail roof, a flush-gable roof with a horseback ridge, a hip roof, a double-eaved hip roof, and a swallowtail flush-gable roof. The swallowtail is the most decorated, and it is typical of Hokkien architecture. As in many traditional temples, the roofs are also decorated with dragons. This is a classic Southern Min, or Hokkien, style temple, an architectural tradition found in Fujian Province around the Ming dynasty. The rising and falling ridgelines are not just decoration. The undulating skyline marks the hierarchy of each building, and it creates a striking visual effect. Over time this silhouette has become a symbol of Tainan itself. As you step in, notice the large nameplate above the door. It carries three Chinese characters, Da Zhang Fu. In Chinese culture the phrase stands for courage, strength and loyalty, the very traits associated with Guan Gong. It is a fitting greeting for anyone who walks through that door.

4. 04

   Neighbors, Guardians and the Matchmaking God

   State Temple of the Martial God: Look for the commemorative tablets and the decorative details, and think about how many restorations and rebuilding efforts have kept this place alive.

   This temple has always been more than a single building in a quiet corner of the city. In 1861, six temples on the neighboring streets joined together to form the Liuhe Realm, the Realm of Harmonious Six, to help maintain civic order in Tainan. They were Kaiji Martial Temple, Lingyou Temple, Guangan Temple, Cangshen Temple, Zhurong Shrine and Chikan Earth God Temple. The Liuhe Chamber was established right here in the State Temple of the Martial God, so this was a meeting point for the city's temple community. The temple also has a gentler side. Inside it is the statue of Yuelao, the Matchmaking God, a figure that draws visitors who hope to find love. Students have a place in the story too. The Confucius Temple, one of the other oldest and best-preserved temples in Taiwan, is traditionally the first stop for those praying for good luck and intelligence before exams. The second stop is the Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple, where visitors pray to Lord Wun Chang for good luck. A warrior's temple has become part of an exam-season route.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off

   As you leave, pause once more and look back at the rooftops. Try counting the different roof shapes and noticing how each building steps up or down from its neighbor. The ridgelines are the temple's signature on Tainan's skyline. There is plenty more to notice if you linger. Look for the commemorative tablets and the decorative details, and think about how many restorations and rebuilding efforts have kept this place alive. Its start is lost in time, but every generation since has added to its story. The temple sits in a district full of other old shrines. If you still have energy, you might wander the neighboring streets and see whether you can spot some of the temples that once joined together as the Realm of Harmonious Six.