Welcome to Tainan Flowers Night Market, known in Chinese as 花園夜市, in the North District of Tainan, at the corner where Hai'an Road meets Hewei Road. This is one of the most famous night markets in Taiwan. It is also the largest in the south of the island, with close to 400 stalls. Here is the first thing to know. This is a mobile night market, not a fixed one. It opens only on certain evenings, currently Thursday through Sunday, and on the other days the same ground works as a car park. Because it is open air, it closes by itself when rain comes. So the real star of the show is not a building. It is the way this open space fills up with people, food, music and color. Over the next few minutes we will follow how the market began, how it moved and nearly vanished, how it grew into a giant, and what you will actually see when you walk its aisles. Let's step into the lights.