San Crisogono Audio Guide

The Layered History of San Crisogono: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to San Crisogono

   You are standing in Piazza Sidney Sonnino, at the gateway to the vibrant Trastevere neighborhood. Directly before you is the Basilica of Saint Crisogono, one of the oldest and most fascinating churches in Rome. While the facade looks like a classic seventeenth-century masterpiece, what you see is actually the third version of a sanctuary that has occupied this spot for nearly 1,700 years. This site began as a private house of worship in the early fourth century, long before Christianity was officially embraced by the Roman Empire. As you look at the building, imagine the street level slowly rising over the centuries, literally burying the past to create the ground you walk on today. We are about to step inside to uncover a world where ancient Roman columns and medieval gold mosaics live beneath a ceiling of pure Baroque gold.

2. 02

   Baroque Ambition and Ancient Stones

   As you step inside, the scale of the interior is immediately striking. This space was dramatically transformed in 1626 by the architect Giovanni Battista Soria, under the patronage of the powerful Cardinal Scipione Borghese. Look upward at the magnificent wooden coffered ceiling; it is gilded with the Borghese family emblems—the eagle and the dragon. The central painting, depicting the Glory of Saint Crisogono, is a high-quality copy of a work by the master Guercino. The original was actually taken to London during the French occupation in 1808. Now, look at the two rows of 22 massive granite columns lining the nave. These are examples of spolia, or reused materials taken directly from ancient Roman ruins. Notice that they do not all match perfectly in color or size, a common practice where the prestige of using ancient imperial stone was worth more than perfect symmetry. Between the altar and the nave, you will see two enormous red porphyry columns—these are among the largest intact ancient porphyry shafts in the entire city of Rome.

3. 03

   A Medieval Masterpiece Underfoot

   Before you move too far, look down at the floor. You are walking on one of the finest Cosmatesque pavements in Italy, dating back to the thirteenth century. This intricate geometric mosaic was created by the Cosmati family, famous craftsmen who recycled fragments of rare colored marbles like green serpentine and red porphyry to create these stunning carpets of stone. In the apse behind the high altar, you will see a another medieval treasure: a mosaic of the Madonna and Child flanked by Saint James and Saint Crisogono, attributed to the school of Pietro Cavallini. To see a practical pointer of the church's medieval roots from the outside, look up at the bell tower—it is a classic twelfth-century Romanesque structure, topped with a rare pyramidal spire. While you explore, please remember that this is an active parish church; if you hear a quiet mass taking place, it is best to limit your movement to the side aisles and lower your voice to respect the worshippers.

4. 04

   The Underground Time Machine

   The true secret of this location lies beneath your feet. For a small fee of three euros, you can descend a flight of stairs near the sacristy to find yourself in the fourth-century paleo-Christian basilica. Hidden until 1907, this excavation reveals the walls of the original church, which sits roughly 6 meters below current street level. Here, you can walk through the ancient narthex and view frescoes from the eighth to the eleventh centuries, including scenes from the life of Saint Benedict. You will even see an ancient baptismal font that was likely adapted from an even older Roman laundry or fullonica. Look for the fenestella confessionis, a small window through which early pilgrims would peer to catch a glimpse of the martyr's relics. It is a hauntingly beautiful experience that shows how the medieval city was literally built on top of the ancient one, layer by layer, through centuries of floods and urban growth.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off

   As you return to the light and sound of modern Trastevere, take a final moment to notice the monks who care for this site today. Since 1847, San Crisogono has been the home of the Trinitarian Order, an organization founded back in 1198 with the specific goal of ransoming Christians held captive. Their presence reminds us that this church is not just a museum of stone and paint, but a living tradition. When you exit, consider wandering into the smaller side streets of Trastevere rather than staying on the main road. Just a few blocks away, you will find the medieval corners of the city that still reflect the atmosphere of the Rome you just saw underground. Perhaps you will notice other campaniles or ancient columns reused in ordinary buildings, as the city continues to recycle its own history. What other layers of time do you think are waiting to be uncovered just beneath the cobbles of the next alleyway?