You are standing in Piazza Sidney Sonnino, at the gateway to the vibrant Trastevere neighborhood. Directly before you is the Basilica of Saint Crisogono, one of the oldest and most fascinating churches in Rome. While the facade looks like a classic seventeenth-century masterpiece, what you see is actually the third version of a sanctuary that has occupied this spot for nearly one thousand seven hundred years. This site began as a private house of worship in the early fourth century, long before Christianity was officially embraced by the Roman Empire. As you look at the building, imagine the street level slowly rising over the centuries, literally burying the past to create the ground you walk on today. We are about to step inside to uncover a world where ancient Roman columns and medieval gold mosaics live beneath a ceiling of pure Baroque gold.