Arrive for opening and walk into a fortress that has guarded the Thames since William the Conqueror threw up the White Tower in the years after 1066 — and has since been palace, prison, armoury, mint and royal menagerie all at once. The rhythm that works: head first for the Crown Jewels before the coach groups arrive, then let a Yeoman Warder tour do the storytelling. The warders are the Tower's resident historians, and their hour of anecdotes about the ravens, the executions and the ghosts is the best-value hour in London.
Then take your time in the White Tower itself, where the Norman chapel of St John the Evangelist survives from around 1080 and ranks of armour line the walls, and stand at the site of the scaffold on Tower Green, where Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard and Lady Jane Grey were executed. Traitors' Gate, the medieval water entrance, still faces the river. The legend the warders love most: if the ravens ever leave the Tower, the kingdom falls. At least six are kept at the Tower, cared for by the Ravenmaster.
Notes
Book a timed slot in advance — a spring morning at the Tower is a busy one, and early entry means the shortest Crown Jewels queue. Allow a full three hours; comfortable shoes are essential because the site is cobbled and uneven in places. The ravens cluster near the Wakefield Tower in the mornings.