To understand the Albaicín, you have to look behind its high walls. You will often see the word Carmen on gates; these are traditional Granada villas that hide lush inner gardens and orchards, a concept dating back to the Arabic word karm, meaning a vine or garden. During the Nasrid dynasty’s peak in the fourteenth century, this hill was home to over 40,000 people and 30 mosques. Water was the lifeblood of this community, and even today, you can see aljibes, or public water cisterns, some of which have been in continuous use for nearly a thousand years. One of the most significant examples is the Aljibe del Rey, the largest cistern in the city, which could hold 300 cubic meters of water. If you pass the Dar al-Horra Palace, you are looking at the former residence of Aixa, the mother of the last king of Granada, Boabdil. It remains the only Nasrid palace still standing outside the walls of the Alhambra itself.