Rokkaku-dō Audio Guide

Rokkaku-dō: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to Rokkaku-dō

   Welcome to Rokkaku-dō, a small hexagonal temple tucked among the buildings of central Kyoto, in Nakagyō ward, just south of Karasuma Oike subway station. Its official name is Chōhō-ji, but almost nobody uses it. Kyotoites call it Rokkaku-dō, which simply means the Hexagonal Hall, after the six-sided shape of its roof. Here is what makes it unusual. Most Kyoto temples sit among trees or up in the hills. This one is hemmed in by tall city buildings, and it has been part of the downtown for centuries. It belongs to the Tendai school of Buddhism, and over the years it has been a pilgrimage stop, a gathering place for townspeople and a cradle of flower arranging. In the next few minutes we will look at the legend of its founding, the hall you see today, the temple's surprising role as a town hall, and the stone that Kyotoites say marks the center of the city. It is a compact place, easy to enjoy in a short visit and well worth a detour if you are heading to Nishiki Market or the Kyoto International Manga Museum.

2. 02

   A Prince, a Pond and a Tiny Golden Kannon

   Tradition credits Prince Shōtoku with founding Rokkaku-dō. He was a regent and high-ranking statesman of the Asuka period, and the story goes that he came to this area looking for timber to build Shitennō-ji temple in Osaka. He is said to have set up a hall here, and that hall is the temple's origin. Another account places the founding more cautiously, in the early Heian period. Whichever you prefer, the temple's roots reach back to the time before Kyoto was the capital. Look for the pond in the grounds. It is remembered as the place where Prince Shōtoku bathed, and stones divide the water into squares. The temple is also a stop on the Saigoku Pilgrimage, the great circuit of Kannon temples across the Kansai region. The heart of the temple is its main image, a hidden Buddha. Tradition describes it as a three-inch gilt-bronze figure of Nyōirin Kannon, donated by Taira no Tokuko in 1178. It is never shown to the public, so what you feel here is the presence of something unseen, protected and venerated for centuries.

3. 03

   The Town Hall of Old Shimogyō

   Now picture this temple as the beating heart of a neighborhood. Rokkaku-dō stood in the center of Shimogyō, the lower town, the merchants' side of old Kyoto, and it served almost like a town hall. After the Ōnin War especially, it played a central role in the daily life and culture of the townspeople. When Shimogyō faced a crisis, the temple bell rang out to call people together. It was also a meeting place for representatives of the town groups, and troops gathered here before battles such as the Tenbun-Hokke Rebellion. The area grew into one of the leading lodging towns in Kyoto. The temple's life was not calm. It suffered 18 confirmed disasters up to the end of the Edo period, including a fire in 1125, and each time it was rebuilt. Another famous visitor came in 1204. Shinran, then 29 years old, chose to spend 100 days in seclusion at Rokkaku-dō. He is remembered as the founding figure of a major school of Japanese Buddhism, and here he was a young man seeking direction.

4. 04

   Hexagons, Navel Stones and Flower Arranging

   Take a good look at the main hall. The current building dates from 1877, when it was rebuilt, and it is a designated Kyoto city cultural property. Its six-sided plan is rare in Japanese temple architecture, and one explanation is that the six sides were meant to symbolize the six senses. In front of the hall you will find a hexagonal stone known as the navel stone, or heso-ishi. Kyotoites call the temple the navel of the city, and the stone is said to mark the center of Kyoto. Some accounts go further and say this was the axis point from which the capital's grid was laid out, though that is the stuff of local tradition. Then there is the ikebana story. Rokkaku-dō is known as the birthplace of ikebana, Japanese flower arranging, and it is linked with the Ikenobō school. Priests of the temple became known for the art. Finally, find the willow tree, which has a reputation for matchmaking. Legend says Emperor Saga came to pray here for a happy meeting with his future wife.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off

   Before you move on, step back and take in the contrast: a tiny temple holding its ground between modern buildings, with centuries of stories folded into a small courtyard. From here, Nishiki Market is close by if you are hungry, and the Kyoto International Manga Museum is a short stroll for something completely different. As you leave, look up at the hexagonal roof once more, then look for the navel stone and the willow. Ask yourself how many people have stopped on this same spot, hearing the same bell tradition, praying, arranging flowers or simply meeting friends. Kyoto's streets have layers, and Rokkaku-dō is a good place to start peeling them back.