St. Stephen's Basilica Audio Guide

St. Stephen's Basilica: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to Saint Stephen's Basilica

   Welcome to Saint Stephen's Basilica, a Roman Catholic church standing in the elegant centre of Pest, the flat, lively half of Budapest on the eastern bank of the Danube. It sits only a few steps from the Hungarian Parliament, and you will soon see why the two buildings are so often talked about together. This is the largest church in Budapest. It is also a co-cathedral, which means it shares the seat of the Archdiocese of Esztergom-Budapest with the Esztergom Basilica. It carries the name of Stephen, the first King of Hungary, who lived from around 975 to 1038. Inside, his mummified right hand is kept in a reliquary, and that relic has made this church a place of pilgrimage as much as a landmark. In the next few minutes I will tell you about a building site that lasted more than half a century, a dome that came crashing down, a king and his famous relic, and the artists who filled the interior with gold, glass and music. Look up at the facade as you listen, and let the story begin.

2. 02

   Fifty Years and a Fallen Dome

   Most great churches take a long time, but this one had real bad luck along the way. Construction began in 1851 to the plans of József Hild, in the classicist style fashionable in his day. The largest Roman Catholic church in the capital rose under difficult circumstances. In 1868, one year after Hild's death, the dome collapsed. That was a catastrophe, and one account of the story says the whole church had to be started again afterwards. The architect Miklós Ybl then took over the work. His name is tied to the building today, and it is largely thanks to him that it counts among the best-known monuments of the city. When Ybl died in 1891, the project passed to József Kauser, who carried the construction through to its end. The basilica was finally completed and consecrated in 1905, 54 years after the first stones were laid. So three architects share the credit. Hild started it, Ybl rescued and shaped it, and Kauser finished it. Next time you glance at the dome, remember how hard won it was.

3. 03

   A King, a Name and a Sacred Hand

   The church we call Saint Stephen's has carried that name only since 1897. Stephen was the first king of Hungary, and through him the country became a Christian state. His personality left a decisive mark on the history of the Hungarians, which is why choosing his name for the capital's largest church felt so natural. Inside lies the relic that draws pilgrims and curious travelers alike: Stephen's right hand, known as the Holy Right. It is kept in a reliquary, and it is regarded as a symbol of the king's incorruptibility. A statue of Stephen by the sculptor Alajos Stróbl also stands inside, so you can meet the king twice, once as stone and once as relic. There is one more story told about the building's proportions. Its height is explained as being no taller than the Hungarian Parliament, a way of expressing the equal importance of spirituality and government in Hungarian culture. Whether you read it as a deliberate message or a happy symmetry, the two great domes of Pest really do seem to be in conversation.

4. 04

   Gold, Glass and Organ Music Inside

   Step inside and the story shifts from stone to craft. After Miklós Ybl's death in 1891, the interior design, furnishings and decoration were planned by the architect József Kauser together with the parish priest Lénárd Lollok, following a single, unified iconographic program. That is why the inside feels like one carefully composed idea rather than a collection of separate pieces. Let your eyes travel slowly. There is a dark, ornately decorated high altar, intricate mosaics, and a dome that depicts God and Saint Stephen. Kauser also made the pulpit. The stained glass was created by Miksa Róth, and the gilding of the interior decoration was carried out by an artist who also did the painting. The pipe organ comes from the factory of József Angster in Pécs, a maker well regarded in its day. That organ is not only for show. The basilica is known for classical concerts throughout the year, especially around the Budapest Spring Festival, so you may find that the building you are visiting is also a concert hall.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off

   Before you move on, look at the facade once more. An inscription there proclaims, in Latin, Ego sum via veritas et vita, which means I am the way, the truth and the life. It is a quiet line to read after hearing how long and winding the road to this building was. If you have the energy, you can ride a lift or climb 364 stairs to a panoramic view over Budapest. From up there you can try to spot the Parliament and test for yourself that idea of two buildings standing at the same height. Entering the basilica is free, though a small donation is welcome. As you wander, keep a few questions in mind. Which detail tells you Hild's classical beginnings, and which belongs to the Kauser era? Can you find the king in both statue and relic? And if you happen to hear the organ, ask yourself how the sound changes the room.