Syntagma Square Audio Guide

Syntagma Square: what does the audio guide cover?

1. 01

   Welcome to Syntagma Square

   Welcome to Syntagma Square, the central square of Athens. The name means Constitution Square, and as you look around you will see why this spot matters so much. Behind you, or ahead of you depending on where you stand, rises the long, pale facade of the Hellenic Parliament, and the square spreads out in front of it like a stage set for the whole country. This is the most important square of modern Athens, both historically and socially. It sits at the crossroads of commerce and Greek politics. It is bounded by Amalias Avenue, Vassileos Georgiou Avenue, Stadiou Street and Othonos Street. Britannica describes it as a garden square laid out beside the palace. In the tourist season it fills with cafe chairs, and all year round it is hemmed in by tall buildings and elderly luxury hotels. Over the next few stops we will look at how the square got its name, at the soldiers who stand guard nearby, and at the many crowds who have gathered here, in celebration and in anger. Take a moment first to feel the pulse of the place: the footsteps coming up from the metro, the trams, the chatter at the edges. This is a square that is always in use.

2. 02

   A Square Born of a Constitution

   To understand the name, we have to go back to the 1830s. After the newly born Greek Kingdom chose Athens as its capital, King Otto moved the seat of government from Nafplio to Athens in 1834. The city needed to look like a capital, and the square was designed and constructed in the early nineteenth century as part of that ambition. The official Athens guide credits the Bavarian architect Michael Koch with its design, as part of Otto's vision of a grand, modern capital. The square faces the building that was once the Old Royal Palace. Today that building houses the Greek Parliament, which has been there since 1934. So the square began life in front of a king's home and now sits in front of the country's elected assembly. That is quite a journey for one patch of ground. The name comes from a dramatic day. On the third of September, 1843, a popular and military uprising forced Otto, the first King of Greece, to grant a constitution. The word for constitution in Greek is syntagma, and the square carries that moment in its name. Every time someone says they will meet you at Syntagma, they are, without knowing it, quoting a revolution.

3. 03

   The Evzones and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

   Now turn your attention to the area between the square and the Parliament building. This is where you will find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and in front of it, the soldiers who guard it. They are the Presidential Guard, the famous Evzones, and the monument is guarded around the clock. The changing of the guard happens every hour, in front of the Tomb. It is one of the living attractions of Athens, a slow, precisely choreographed ritual that draws small crowds of onlookers with their phones raised. Part of the appeal is that it is not a museum piece. It is a working ceremony, performed again and again through the day and night. On certain days there is a larger ceremonial version. An army band takes part, and the majority of the 120 Evzones are present, at 11 a.m. If your timing allows, that is the version to catch. Even on an ordinary hour, though, stand still for a minute and watch the details: the measured steps, the stillness between movements, and the way the busy square seems to quieten around the Tomb.

4. 04

   A Stage for the People

   Since that day in 1843, the square has been inseparable from the political life of Greece. It has been a place of demonstrations, social upheavals and protest, right up to the present. It is also a place of celebration. Today it hosts events like the Athens Pride Parade, and for many Athenians it remains a favorite meeting spot. Some of its moments were painful. On the third of December, 1944, less than two months after the country's liberation from the Nazis, police shot at demonstrators of the Greek People's Liberation Army, known as EAM, in this square. That began almost two months of fighting in Athens, known as the Dekemvriana, the December Events. From May to November 2011, thousands of Greeks occupied the square, protesting against the austerity measures that came with the country's bailout program. The so-called indignants filled it for most of the year with endless speeches and cultural happenings. Yet there is a gentler layer too. In the 1950s and 1960s, the square was filled with tables from the surrounding cafes and patisseries, and waiters in white jackets and black bow ties crossed the streets with trays in hand. A well-known photograph by Dimitris Harissiadis captures those perfectly arranged tables. Picture that café buzz under your feet while you stand here, and you will see how many different Athenses have shared this one square.

5. 05

   Before You Head Off

   Before you move on, here is one more detail to carry with you. The numbering of Athens streets is based on Syntagma Square. Each street number starts from here, with the even numbers on the right. In a very literal sense, the whole city measures itself from this spot. Practically, you are also standing at one of the busiest transport hubs in Greece. Metro lines two and three stop at Syntagma station, which lies beneath the square. The tram has its northern terminal right next to it, and buses and trolleybuses start, end and connect here. The special airport bus, the X 95, and metro line three both link the square with Athens International Airport. From here, you could stroll toward the shopping along Ermou Street or the coffee shops along Voulis Street. Or simply stay a little longer, and watch who passes through. Tourists, commuters, soldiers, protesters and friends meeting for coffee have all crossed this square, and the next story may be happening right in front of you.