Welcome to Minoritenplatz, and to the Minoritenkirche. You are in Vienna's first district, the Innere Stadt, on a square where the hum of the modern city drops to a murmur. Standing in front of you is a church with a very long memory. Its formal name is the Italian National Church of Mary of the Snows, but almost everyone calls it the Minoritenkirche, the church of the Friars Minor Conventual. Look up at that steep, high gable and the slender tower, and you are seeing French Gothic architecture rebuilt in the middle of Vienna. A word about what you are about to hear. The history of this church is well attested in some places, patchy in others, and now and then wrapped in legend. Where the record is clear, I will tell you so. Where something is a tradition or rests on a single account, I will say that too, because a building this old keeps both documents and stories. So let us take it in three passes: first the friars and the extraordinary funeral that happened here, then the architecture and the stream that had to be moved for it, and then the art and the many different communities who have prayed, or taken shelter, inside these walls.