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Viking graffiti in Hagia Sophia's marble: where to look
Hagia Sophia has Viking graffiti. What was a Viking doing in the emperor's church? Upstairs, on a marble rail, his runes still spell a name, school-desk style: Halfdan. And this was no public balcony: the gallery was traditionally kept for the empress and her court. And in a niche across the gallery, a second Norseman left his name too. So who were these men? Byzantine writers called them the axe-bearers. Since 2024, tourists enter upstairs. In the south gallery, by the mosaics, look down at the rail, not up. The axe-bearers swore to guard the emperor himself, in battle and at court: a sacred trust. Halfdan was most likely one of them: a Viking bodyguard.
If you go: On Hagia Sophia's upper-gallery route, in the south gallery with the mosaics, look down at the top of the marble rail, not up: the runes scratched there by a Norseman spell Halfdan.
Sources: Wikipedia: Runic inscriptions in Hagia Sophia · Wikipedia: Hagia Sophia · Wikipedia: Varangian Guard · istanbul.com